Pacific Northwest Cheese Project

Quel Fromage :: Bellingham, Washington

Many cities are amalgamations of smaller, independent towns that grew together and eventually became one, either by annexation or general acceptance...that describes the relationship of Ballard to Seattle and Albina to Portland as well as Fairhaven to Bellingham, Washington. Fairhaven, now situated on Bellingham's south side, has evolved into a lovely historic district; some may also know it as the place where you catch the ferry to Alaska. Among its many claims to fame, Fairhaven is the location of artisan cheese shop Quel Fromage.

Rachel Riggs and her husband, originally from San Diego, fell for the Bellingham area while visiting on vacation; in fact, they liked it so much they moved there. Just over a year ago, Riggs opened Quel Fromage in the Fairhaven district. It's a gorgeous, sophisticated shop that carries a selection of high-end chocolates, oils and cured meats as well as a broad selection of domestic and imported cheeses. In addition, Riggs offers classes and events focused around wines, cheeses and other gourmet goodies. One of her most creative concepts: tasting notes and wine pairing suggestions printed right on the store receipt!

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Quel Fromage
1200 Old Fairhaven Parkway  Suite 101
Bellingham, WA  98225
360-671-0203
hours: Mon-Sat 10-6  Sunday 12-5

Jerseyland Organics :: Grand Forks, BC

Grand Forks, British Columbia is just over the border in the Boundary Country of eastern BC. It's a fascinating little town that's home to a significant settlement of Russian Doukhobors, a pacifist group that migrated to Canada in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century....so that explains the Russian restaurants sprinkled throughout the hamlet of 5,000 people.

Grand Forks is also home to Jerseyland Organics, an organic cheese and yogurt maker that's been operating since 1994. Originally started by Ric and Vickie Llewellyn, Jerseyland grew from one cow to a significant herd of Jerseys. After transitioning to organic status in 1994 (Jerseyland was the first organic dairy in Western BC), the Llewellyns started cheese and yogurt production. One of the reasons the Llewellyns began making cheese was that the Doukhobors were looking for someone who could make the kind of cheese they liked, so Ric started out making a type of cottage cheese favored by the community. The cheese business grew from there.

In 2006, the Llewellyns sold Jerseyland to Jeremy and Keely deVries. Jeremy is a third generation farmer of Dutch descent from the Lower Mainland with lots of farm and dairy experience; he had worked with Ric on the farm for several years prior to the purchase. Jeremy and Keely are a hardworking couple committed to organic and sustainable farming and plan to continue the legacy left by the Llewellyns. They've chosen to focus more exclusively on the cow's milk cheese and yogurt lines (the Llewellyns also sold beef and made goat's milk cheeses) and are working hard to expand their markets. Several employees assist on the farm and with the cheese and yogurt making process and on the weekends, Jeremy drives the product to markets all across BC.

Jerseyland has a very nice shop on site with windows looking on to the cheesemaking area - you can also purchase cheese and sample cheese curds while you're watching. Jerseyland makes several Gouda style cheeses (plain and flavored), an Asiago, Parmesan, Feta and Cheddar. All are made from pasteurized milk and have the characteristic richness that comes from good Jersey milk. The yogurt is available both plain and flavored (strawberry, blueberry and vanilla) and is non-homogenized so it has a lovely 'cream on the top' effect.

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Jerseyland Organics
2690 Almond Gardens Rd.
Grand Forks, BC  V0H 1H0
250-442-8112

Jerseyland cheeses and yogurt are available in Grand Forks as well as at a number of independent groceries and co-ops across British Columbia; unfortunately, they're not available in the US.

Jeffrey Roberts Seattle May 14-17th, 2008

Jeffrey Roberts, author of The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese, will be in Seattle to give a seminar at the upcoming Seattle Cheese Festival. In addition, he will attend and emcee several cheese events and sign books during the days prior....here's a roundup of Roberts' Seattle appearances:

Wednesday May 14th  Stumbling Goat Bistro will hold a cheese dinner/fundraiser in conjunction with Slow Food Seattle. Jeff will be the featured speaker and Washington Cheesemakers Julie & Rob Steil from River Valley Cheese Co., Kelli & Anthony Estrella from Estrella Family Creamery and Ryan Trail from Mt. Townsend Creamery will also attend. Cost is $125/person and the event benefits the efforts of another Washington cheesemaker, Quillisascut Cheese Co., and their Farm School program.  Call 206-784-3535 to reserve your spot.

Stumbling Goat Bistro
6722 Greenwood Ave N
Seattle, WA
206-784-3535

Thursday May 15th  Pike Brewing presents a beer and cheese dinner with Roberts and those very same Washington Cheesemakers...that is, Julie & Rob Steil from River Valley Cheese Co., Kelli & Anthony Estrella from Estrella Family Creamery and Ryan Trail from Mt. Townsend Creamery. Cost is $55/person, reservations recommended. Jeff will also be signing copies of his book, which will be available at the discounted price of $29.95

Pike Brewing Co.
1451 1st Ave.
Seattle, WA
206-622-6044

Saturday May 17th  Roberts will be giving a seminar at the Seattle Cheese Festival titled "Northwest Terroir." SCF seminars are always outstanding and this is a great opportunity to learn the ins and outs of Northwest cheese from someone who knows what he's talking about. The seminar is $40 - to register online click here.

Rivers Edge Chevre Featured in Philadelphia Inquirer

Yesterday's Philadelphia Inquirer highlighted Pat Morford's Up in Smoke, one of her fresh goat's milk specialties. It's a creamy, luscious fresh chevre that's smoked and wrapped in maple leaves that Pat steeps in bourbon. This year has been a good one for Up in Smoke...in March, the cheese took second place in the flavored soft goat cheese category at the World Championship Cheese awards, an international competition in Wisconsin. Up in Smoke has also been a favorite New York for some time - it seems that the gospel of great Northwest cheese is spreading.

The Cheesemonger's Shop ::: Leavenworth, Washington

I haven't been through Leavenworth, Washington for a long time. Leavenworth is situated in the midst of the Cascades in Central Washington....if you travel over Stevens Pass between Eastern and Western Washington, you'll go right through it. If you've never been you should know that in the 1960s, Leavenworth hinged its fortunes on the premise that making itself over into a quaint Bavarian Village would bring fame and fortune. And it worked - the town is really quite remarkable. There are several ski areas in the vicinity and the town becomes a hub of activity in the winter months, but also holds a variety of festivals throughout the year. I've always been tempted to find the whole thing kitschy, but the sincerity and sheer thoroughness with which Leavenworth accomplished the feat is undeniably impressive. Even the McDonald's and Starbucks are Bavar-ified.

So when you find yourself moseying through Leavenworth wondering if you'll have to dredge up your high school German to get by, you're likely to happen upon a cheese shop called, appropriately enough, The Cheesemonger's Shop situated right in the heart of town. (If you're already familiar with the shop, you should know that it's moved from the previous location). This is Leavenworth's own deli-style specialty cheese emporium. Dave and Barb Hambleton carry a nice selection of cheese, both local and international, as well as wine and German and English ales. Naturally, they've got a selection of German products as well including sauerkraut and mustard.

These folks are enthusiastic about cheese. Christy and Sarah were working when I was there the other day (pictured at above right - Christy in front, Sarah behind the counter) and they jumped right in and offered me tastes of cheese and knew their stuff when I asked them about local products. Most impressive - for me anyway - is the fact that The Cheesemonger's Shop carries cheese from local artisans including Alpine Lakes Sheep Cheese and Frost Farm during the season. If you're in town, it's well worth your time to stop by and see what this cheesemonger can do for you.

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The Cheesemonger's Shop
819 Front St.
Leavenworth, WA  98826
877-888-7389

Quillisascut Cheese Co.

Lora Lea Misterly at work in the cheese room at Quillisascut

It's not really hard to say, just take it one syllable at a time. Quil-li-sas-cut. There, that's better. The name comes from a local creek and as the story goes, it is a Native American word that means 'place of scattered bushes,' but the meaning is a little slippery because no one can confirm that. At any rate, these 36 acres nestled into a hillside northwest of Spokane, Washington house a bustling microcosm of activity, with Rick and Lora Lea Misterly playing the role of farmers, cheesemakers, goat herders and more recently teachers on this thriving farm.

For over twenty years, the Misterlys have been farming and making cheese from the milk of their herd of goats. Lora Lea, a native of Leavenworth, Washington, remembers the cheese her mother made....cottage cheese and farmer's cheese and something resembling 'pot cheese,' sort of a variation on cottage cheese. When she originally set out to make cheese herself, she happened to come across a recipe for Manchego which worked well with the flavor profile of the farm's goat's milk; that cheese became the luscious Curado that she still makes today.

While they kept cows in the past, today the Misterlys focus exclusively on their herd of about 60 goats. Each milk producing female (usually around 30 or so) is milked by hand twice a day. The Misterlys have earned income from the farm in various other ways over the years, raising turkeys and sheep as well as growing a variety of produce and crops. In 2002, they started the Quillisascut Farm School for the Domestic Arts, a popular school and retreat for all manner of students, chefs and others who visit the farm for varying lengths of time, learning about farming and creating meals focused solely around farm products (click here for an in depth article about the school experience). In October of 2008, the book Chefs on the Farm: Recipes and Inspiration from the Quillisascut Farm School for the Domestic Arts by co-authors Lora Lea Misterly and Shannon Borg will be released, focusing on farm experiences and highlighting seasonal recipes.

Beecher's Cheese 101 Course to Benefit Black Sheep Creamery

On Friday May 2nd, from 6-8:30pm, Beecher's Handmade Cheese in Seattle will parter with Pike Place Market's Tasting Room to present a Cheese 101 course to benefit Brad and Meg Gregory of Washington's Black Sheep Creamery.

As you may recall, Black Sheep Creamery suffered extensive damage - including the loss of most of their sheep - during the floods of December 2007. Since then, they've been working very hard to clean up and pull themselves, in Meg's words "onward and upward, out of the muck!" The recovery effort is ongoing and you can help by attending this course; 100% of the proceeds will go to the Gregorys.

Join Kurt Dammeier, Beecher's front man, for this fun and informative event where you'll learn all about cheese types and styles, the history of artisan cheese and experience a virtual tour of the cheesemaking process. Participants will also learn the ins and outs of pairing cheese and wine.

Cost is $50. To register online or for more information click here.

Spokane Gourmet: Saunders Cheese Market and Vino: A Wine Shop

Saunders Cheese Market is Spokane's source for fine cheese. Located just off the freeway in downtown Spokane, Washington, Saunders is situated in a block that also boasts Vino: A Wine Shop as well as a chocolate emporium. Multiple local vineyards also have tasting rooms within a few blocks  radius of the shop....it's Spokane's burgeoning gourmet zone.

Saunders has been open just over a year. Kim Morin's selection includes the best of Neal's Yard, many French and Italian favorites as well as local cheese from area cheesemakers when she can get it. (For a profile of Saunders by Spokane chef David Blaine, see my prior post here). She's also got a selection of treats like crackers, balsamic vinegar and other cheese accompaniments. You can buy treats from Saunders, or you can also enjoy a cheese plate and a glass of wine in the cozy seating area at your leisure.

Kim also sent me down the block to meet John Allen, one of the owners of Vino: A Wine Shop. Vino specializes in Washington wine but features wines from all over the Pacific Northwest and the World. The shop has an extensive selection and includes a spacious tasting room in the back and a unique Wine of the Month club that stashes wines according to your preference in their temperature controlled cellar. They're excited about the Spokane area's growing wine industry and feature the best of local vineyards.

Kim Morin (center) with friends Claire and Kirk at Saunders Cheese Market

Upcoming Events at Saunders Cheese Market:

April 28th - Sweets for the Sweet  Chef Jeremiah Timmons from Ambrosia Bistro incorporates cheeses into delicious desserts
April 29th - Intro to Wine and Cheese - Kim and John from Vino will teach the fundamentals of wine and cheese
May 19th - Northwest Cuisine Jeremiah Timmons will teach attendees different recipes using Northwest regional flair
May 27th - Spokane wineries and Northwest Cheeses - Kim and John pair Spokane area wines with regional NW cheeses

all classes are $45 and take place at Saunders from 6-8PM

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Saunders Cheese Market
210 S Washington
Spokane, WA  99201
509-455-9400
hours: Tues 12-5; Wed-Thurs 11-5; Friday 10-7, Sat 10-5

Vino: A Wine Shop
222 S Washington
Spokane, WA 99201
509-838-1229
hours: Tues-Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5

The Definitive Canadian Wine & Cheese Cookbook

Following up on his previous survey of Canadian artisan cheeses, The Definitive Guide to Canadian Artisanal and Fine Cheeses, Gurth Pretty has developed a companion cooking and pairing guide called The Definitive Canadian Wine and Cheese Cookbook.

This book answers the perennial question - what do I do with all of this cheese? - and demonstrates the range of possibilities beyond just creating a cheese plate. Pretty, a professional chef, seems more in his element in this book as he whips up all manner of gorgeous appetizers, brunch items, salads and desserts using the great variety of artisan cheese made in Canada.

While the book does offer some cheese basics and background on cheesemaking, the focus is on the food and wine. Recipes range from the simple (Lamb Burgers with Dragon's Breath cheese from Nova Scotia) to the elaborate (Quark-Filled Croquembouche) and are a demonstration of the range of dishes that are possible to concoct with cheese, if one is willing. Wine pairings are suggested with every dish and incorporate both Canadian and international wines in the mix.

In Canada, cheesemakers can be licensed either federally or provincially; those that are licensed provincially may sell their products only within their respective province. What this means is that you might be able to buy certain cheeses only within a limited area of the country...making Gurth Pretty's job a little more difficult. While the recipes do call for a specific cheese or cheeses, he helpfully suggests alternatives for those unable to secure the exact product. Either way, this book is a useful guide for culinary and artisan cheese adventurers.

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The Definitive Canadian Wine & Cheese Cookbook
by Gurth Pretty and Tony Aspler
Whitecap Press, 240 pages  $35

Farmstead and Artisan Cheesemaking Workshop May 13-14th, 2008 :: Caldwell, Idaho

Downloadworkshop08.pdf

The University of Idaho Extension is sponsoring a Farmstead and Artisan Cheesemaking Workshop on May 13-14th, 2008. The workshop will be held at the University of Idaho Food Technology Center in Caldwell, Idaho (east of Boise).

This hands-on workshop will delve into the science and technology of cheesemaking as well as the business and marketing aspects of the trade. Featured speakers include Marc Bates, former head of the WSU Creamery; Dave Potter of Dairy Connection; and Jeff Kronenberg of the University of Idaho.

For more information, download the brochure at the link above or call (208) 364-6188.